Just what are active ingredients in skincare and how should we use them?
Active ingredients are the functional components in your skincare products that make them work. Let's call them the heavy lifters - they are the powerhouse of ingredients! They are the ingredients that are responsible for delivering benefits such as reducing wrinkles, brightening the skin, or treating acne. In short, they prevent, protect and/or heal.
Examples of Active Ingredients
There are many different active ingredients that can be used in skincare products. Here are just a few examples:
Retinol: Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that can help to reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help to brighten the skin, protect against damage from free radicals, and boost collagen production.
Niacinamide: Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that can help to improve skin tone and texture, reduce redness, and control oil production.
Hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance that can help to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity.
Salicylic acid: Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can help to exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, and treat acne.
Which Types Work Well Together?
Many active ingredients can be used together to achieve even better results. For example, retinol and vitamin C can be used together to help reduce wrinkles and brighten the skin. Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid can be used together to help hydrate the skin and improve its texture. Here are some powerful combinations:
Retinol and hyaluronic acid: Retinol can help to stimulate collagen production and reduce wrinkles, while hyaluronic acid can help to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity.
Vitamin C and ferulic acid: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help to brighten the skin and protect against damage from free radicals. Ferulic acid can help to stabilize vitamin C and enhance its effectiveness.
Niacinamide and zinc: Niacinamide can help to reduce inflammation and control oil production, while zinc can help to soothe the skin and promote wound healing.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs): AHAs and BHAs are chemical exfoliants that can help to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores. AHAs are water-soluble, while BHAs are oil-soluble, so they can work together to exfoliate both the surface of the skin and the pores.
Which Types Don't Work Well Together?
On the flip side, While many active ingredients can be used together, there are a few combinations that should be avoided. Here are some combos you might want to avoid:
Retinol and vitamin C: Retinol and vitamin C are both powerful antioxidants, but they can interact with each other and cause irritation. If you want to use both of these ingredients, it is best to use them at different times of day.
Benzoyl peroxide and alpha hydroxy acids: Benzoyl peroxide is a drying agent that can be irritating to the skin. AHAs can also be irritating, so using these two ingredients together can be too harsh for many people.
Salicylic acid and retinol: Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that can be irritating to the skin. Retinol is also a potentially irritating ingredient, so using these two ingredients together can be too harsh for many people.
How to Use Active Ingredients
When using active ingredients, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label. You may also want to consult with a dermatologist or skin specialist to get personalised advice. If you are new to using active ingredients, it is a good idea to start with a lower concentration product and gradually increase the strength over time. You should also patch test new products on a small area of skin before using them on your entire face.
Active Ingredients for Beginners: A Simple Guide
If you're new to using active ingredients in your skincare routine, it can be a bit overwhelming. There are so many different ingredients to choose from, and it can be difficult to know where to start.
Here's a simple guide to help you get started with active ingredients:
1. Start with one ingredient at a time. It's best to introduce one new active ingredient to your skin at a time, so you can monitor for any reactions.
2. Choose a low concentration product. When you're first starting out, it's a good idea to choose a product with a low concentration of the active ingredient. This will help to minimize the risk of irritation.
3. Patch test the product. Before applying a new product to your entire face, patch test it on a small area of skin first. This will help you to identify any potential reactions.
4. Be patient. It may take several weeks or months to see results from using active ingredients. Don't get discouraged if you don't see immediate results.
5. Use sunscreen. When using active ingredients, it's important to use sunscreen every day, even on cloudy days. This will help to protect your skin from damage and premature aging.
Here are a few beginner-friendly active ingredients to consider:
Hyaluronic acid: This is a naturally occurring substance that can help to hydrate the skin. It's suitable for all skin types.
Niacinamide: This is a form of vitamin B3 that can help to improve skin tone and texture, reduce redness, and control oil production. It's also suitable for all skin types.
Vitamin C: This is a powerful antioxidant that can help to brighten the skin, protect against damage from free radicals, and boost collagen production. It's best for normal to oily skin.
Salicylic acid: This is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can help to exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, and treat acne. It's best for oily and acne-prone skin.
Additional Tips - A Recap
When using active ingredients, it is important to start with a low concentration and gradually increase the strength over time.
You should also patch test new products on a small area of skin before using them on your entire face.
It is important to be patient when using active ingredients. It may take several weeks or months to see results.
If you have sensitive skin, it's best to avoid using retinol, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, it's important to talk to your doctor before using active ingredients.
It's always a good idea to consult with a dermatologist or skin specialist if you have any concerns about your skin.
Active Ingredients for Mature Skin
As we get older, our skin becomes thinner, drier, and less elastic. This means that we may need to use stronger active ingredients to address our skin concerns. Some good active ingredients for mature skin include retinol, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid.
Active Ingredients for Sensitive Skin
If you have sensitive skin, it is important to choose active ingredients that are gentle and non-irritating. Some good options include niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides.
As An FYI...
When using active ingredients, it is important to use sunscreen every day, even on cloudy days.
You may need to adjust your skincare routine as your skin changes over time.
If you're going for advanced facial treatments such as chemical peels or micro needling, it's important to discontinue use of actives for 7 days prior and again 7 days after to avoid any irritation, complications or conditions such as hyperpigmentation occurring in the skin.
I would also like to add that it is important to do your research and choose products that are right for you. Not all active ingredients are suitable for everyone, and it is important to find products that are compatible with your skin type and concerns. This is why knowing your own skin type and concerns is paramount - so you can make an informed decision based off not only which actives are right for your goals but also for your skin type. The generic 10 step skincare routine your favourite influencer is adopting may be more damaging than good for your skin - so do your homework! Your skin will thank you later.
Who am I?
I am a skincare specialist who is passionate about helping others achieve healthy, glowing skin. I have been using active ingredients myself for many years, and I love sharing my knowledge and experience with others. I run my own skincare clinic in Derry, Northern Ireland and have been obsessed with skincare since I was a small child - although I was late to the industry, only joining as a professional in my mid 30s after a career change that led me to my beautiful clinic.
I believe that everyone deserves to have beautiful skin. By using the right active ingredients and taking good care of your skin, you can achieve your skin goals. Find this post helpful? Leave me a comment and let me know what you'd like to see next!
Love always, C x